By 1848 the North was a seedbed of fermenting radicalism. Reformers
embraced every new idea in an attempt to advance freedom and perfect human existence.
Transcendentalism, Millennialism, spiritualism, Mormonism, utopic socialism, religious
communism, Shakerism, pacifism, feminism, temperance, abolitionism, and reform for the
institutionalized were only a few of countless reform movements sweeping across the "burned
over" district of upper New York State and New England--areas already well scorched by
successive religious revivals of earlier generations.
Women in America were faced with persistent legal, political, educational, and professional
discrimination. On 19 July 1848 Lucretia Mott and Elizabeth Cady Stanton organized the famous
Seneca Falls Convention in upstate New York. Over 100 men and women signed a "Declaration
of Rights and Sentiments". Based upon the Declaration of Independence, this document claimed
that "All men and women are created equal" and demanded that women be allowed to develop as
morally responsible beings. Among 12 resolutions passed with this declaration was one calling for
the right to elective franchise. Amidst the resulting storm of ridicule that broke throughout the
country and the press, many signers withdrew their support.
Besides battling extensive ridicule and rejection, the feminist movement was increasingly
overshadowed throughout the 1850s by the antislavery movement. The time for women's rights
had not yet arrived, and after all spasms of reform were utterly spent in the Civil War, feminism
could only await another reform generation in the 20th century.
The "Bloomer
Costume" consisted of a loose-fitting dress or coat reaching below the knees and a garment
similar to Turkish trousers, gathered at the ankles into walking boots or fitted above house
slippers. This practical outfit was designed by Elizabeth Smith, daughter of Gerrit Smith and
cousin of Elizabeth Cady Stanton. Both women wore the costume as did Susan B. Anthony,
Lucy Stone, Angelina Grimke Weld, and others. The majority of Americans and the press
considered the reform dress "a badge of radicalism, and its wearers were suspected of ‘free love'
notions and of a desire to be rid of all feminine graces and restrictions." One after another the
feminist leaders "went back to the long skirts, because, as Lucy Stone said, it was ‘so much
bother to be different.' Susan B. Anthony dryly remarked that she found it impossible to obtain a
man's attention to her talk when he was completely occupied gazing at her ankles."
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Young woman
modeling an EARLY BLOOMER COSTUME Sixth-plate
daguerreotype Photographer unknown Possibly New York State c.1848-50
Whether leader or soldier in the cause, the subject of this daguerreotype was one of only a tiny
fraction of women who dared to defy the conventions and mores of the world in which they
lived.
She may have drawn her strength of purpose from a New England heritage of belief in human
liberty and reason, yet only from the courage of her own heart could she summon the bravado to
wear these clothes as visual symbols of the liberation to which she was entitled.
"The Bloomer Polka & Schottisch" Sheet
Music Baltimore, 1851 Note the similarity of costume with the daguerreotype.
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